I'd forgotten how painful long distance walking can be, it took around 3 to 4 days for my body to adjust to the terrain and daily distances. We got caught in rainfall of epic proportions going over Conic Hill which obscured our first views of Loch Lomond.

Things had changed since my walk 7 years previously, the routes popularity had increased and the road ahead was dotted with highly visible colouful anoraks, great strands of walking folk. Sections of woodland that had been newly felled in 1999 now grew high above my head and new areas were felled and flattened, reveling stumps, roots and soil and opening up alternate viewpoints.

Until recently I had no idea about the Highland Clearances during the 1800's, my new understanding of this history will have a profound impact on future engagement with the 'empty' Highlands.